Stocking Up

Ahhhhh, Bean’s leg gets stocked up, and like most of us who are attentive, even considered in some circles to be obsessive (clearly not by horse people), I know his every quirky peculiarity (mental as well as physical), and then some.

So, it’s come as no surprise that I made it a point to learn about his “tied-in-behind on his left front” condition, which is the term used to describe the distorted angle of the ligaments and tendons located behind the knee parallel to the cannon bone that in Bean’s case becomes swollen periodically.

Yet, even with the help of my trusted farrier who keeps him as balanced as possible in order to relieve the pressure higher up, the inflammation makes a predictable appearance nevertheless. The good news - he’s very rarely lame, which helps keep me sleeping at night, even though I’d prefer his legs were a textbook match all the same.

And, my guess? I’m not alone in this. In fact, I can think of at least a dozen horses in similar situations with as many owners, who like me, routinely stand around in puddles of cold water with all the hosing we do. And, while it’s almost a standard part of horse life, I’ll bet many of us out there really don’t know why we’re doing what we’re doing, which is the thing that prompted me to turn to my friend and expert soft tissue guy, Dallas O. Goble, DVM, Dipl. ACVS, to find out; what exactly is “stocking up,” anyway?

Here’s what he had to say . . .“A term that’s been passed down for generations, and will probably continue because it’s engrained in the fabric of ‘horsemen knowledge,’” he began, “stocking up is a problem of subcutaneous (beneath the skin) fluid that accumulates in the distal limb, probably due to lymphatic status or compromised circulation.” So, now that that’s cleared up (?), what’re the commonly associated signs and history of a horse that stocks up?

1. Swelling most frequently occurs from the pastern to mid-canon bone area, more commonly affecting the rear legs, but can also be present in the front legs, in one or both legs, or in rare cases, all four

2. It usually starts as very mild filling and gradually becomes more pronounced over time

3. The swelling is not painful when palpated or rubbed; however, the horse may show mild resistance to your picking up the leg

4. The horse is not lame but may be slightly stiff when first led from the stall

5. Swelling usually decreases and will often return to normal after 10 – 20 minutes of exercise
6. Suggested to be more common in overweight horses due to fatty infiltration or increased compressive forces on lymphatic vascular

7. Also suggested to be associated with high protein diets

8. Once it starts, it often becomes chronic and tending to worsen as the horse ages

9. One possible cause is from an old injury that results in scar tissue reducing lymphatic drainage

Treatment and prevention:

1. It is more prevalent in a stalled horse or horse without an opportunity to exercise

2. If the horse is fat or obese (Body Condition Score above 7) consider reducing body weight

3. Be sure foot care is optimal and primary problems are not present, such as chronic thrush or White Line Disease

4. Cold water hosing is considered beneficial as is massage

5. Leg wraps may be used if the problem is excessive but should not be used by an inexperienced owner or become a routine part of care

6. Liniments are sometimes suggested but have the potential of making the problem worse if the substance used is at all irritating to the leg

In the end, Dr. Goble prescribes regular exercise as the best prevention/treatment . . . Hhhmm, I suppose that means I HAVE to ride my horse every day . . . Imagine that . . .

A friend emailed this to me a while back . . . While it probably circulated around ad nauseam, it still holds up, so I figure it’s worth posting . . . As the legendary California rider and trainer Jimmy Williams once said, “It’s what you learn after you know it all that’s important.” . . .

HOW MANY HORSEPERSONS DOES IT TAKE TO CHANGE A LIGHT BULB?

WESTERN PLEASURE RIDERS: Oh, my God! Someone change that bulb; my silver and spangles have to sparkle, and my diamond studs need to flash in the light, and the highlighter on Old Peanut Head’s nose absolutely, positively must look shiny! You - without all the silver on your saddle; obviously you can't ride - you change it.

ENDURANCE RIDER: Light bulb? Do you mind, I'm trying to get my horse's pulse/respiration/hydration down to respectable levels. Then, I have another 50 miles to go before I can even think about changing a light bulb.

DRESSAGE QUEEN: Change a light bulb? Are you joking? I couldn't subject myself to such a menial task. Change it yourself. Oh, and wash your hands when you are finished. The very idea!

CLASSICAL DRESSAGE QUEEN: These things must be approached slowly, with great patience, and adherence to the principles layed down by the classical masters, otherwise the light bulb will not attain its true potential, and will forever be in the shadow of its true self. And, never, ever use any type of gadget when changing the light bulb; that is an offense to the principles of classical light bulb changing.

EVENTERS: Wuss! I’ll change it as soon as my arm is out of this sling, broken after falling off at that large stone wall while riding Hell Bent for Leather cross country. Until then, deal with the dark; it'll put hair on your chest. Only dressage riders need lights, anyway.

NATURAL HORSEMAN: You must instill respect in the light bulb using my easy to follow instructions on the "Light Bulb Dynamics" video set, available for only $179.00 on my website, so that it sees you as the Alpha light bulb. Once you have done that, you will find there is really no need to change the light bulb at all, but that the light bulb will, with very little coaxing from you, when you use my patented "Light Bulb Coaxer" for only $99.00, behave as all good light bulbs should.

HUNTER RIDER: Well, I'm waiting for my trainer to tell me exactly how, but he's changing light bulbs somewhere else right now.

BACKYARD HORSE PERSON: Do I have to do everything??!! Oh yeah, I guess I do. Well, I'll get to it as soon as I'm done mucking stalls, cleaning and filling the water tank, cleaning and filling the water buckets, raking and sweeping, stacking the hay, setting up for night feeding, cleaning my tack, picking out manure from the paddock, brushing and exercising the horses, and whatever else needs to be done.

HOW MANY HORSES DOES IT TAKE TO CHANGE A LIGHT BULB???

THOROUGHBRED: Who ME?? Do WHAT? I'm scared of light bulbs! I'm outta’ here!

ARABIAN: Someone else do it. It might get my silky mane dirty and besides, who's gonna’ read me the instructions?

QUARTER HORSE: Put all the bulbs in a pen and tell me which one you want.

SHETLAND: Give it to me. I'll kill it and then we won't have to worry about it anymore.

FRIESIAN: I would, but I can't see where I'm going from behind all this mane.

WARMBLOOD: Is the 2nd Level Instruction Packet in English? Doesn't anyone realize that I was sold for $75K as a yearling, but only because my hocks are bad, otherwise I would be worth $100K? I am NOT changing light bulbs. Get the TB back here and make him do it.

MORGAN: Me! Me! Me! P-l-e-e-e-a-s-e let me! Just watch; I know how, really I do! And, when I’m done, we can go over to the neighbors’ yard and chase their cats!

APPALOOSA: Ya'll are a bunch of losers. We don't need to change the light bulb; I ain't scared of the dark. And, someone stop that damn Morgan from jumping up and down before I double barrel ‘im.

HAFLINGER: That thing I ate was a light bulb?

Carbohydrates - Demystified

As you know by now, I have Bean, a Thoroughbred, who in typical Thoroughbred fashion can lose weight with one desperate whinny, so coming up with a feeding program that keeps him calm but keeps him fit is a constant challenge. And, with the buzz going around about carbohydrates being the number one contributor to everything from colic and laminitis to hyperactivity and nervousness, with developmental orthopedic diseases (DOD) and Cushing’s Disease thrown into the mix, I’m beginning to wonder: are carbohydrates a help or a hindrance to the equine diet? I figured if anyone would know, Larry Lawrence, PhD, Nutritionist at Kentucky Equine Research would, so I asked . . . And, here’s what he had to say . . .

Understanding Digestion

Having exceptionally small stomachs, horses are limited in their ability to absorb nutrients from large quantities of food at one time, a holdover from their days in the wild. Because they can forage up to 20 hours a day, the stomach needs to process food quickly, between 30 to 90 minutes before passing it on.

The small intestine is the next stop where the majority of the nutrients, including protein, some carbohydrates, and fat are digested, and where many essential vitamins and minerals are absorbed. From there, the digestive matter and liquids continue on to the cecum and colon (hind-gut), which digests fiber (insoluble carbohydrates) and the remaining soluble carbohydrates (starches and sugars).

Understanding Carbohydrates

There are six main categories of nutrients necessary to a horse’s survival – water, carbohydrates, protein, fats, vitamins, and minerals. While energy isn’t a category, next to water, almost 90% of a horse’s nutrient intake is required to fulfill this critical requirement, and where carbohydrates, soluble and non-soluble, come in.

Soluble Carbohydrates

Soluble carbohydrates (starches and sugars) are broken down into simple sugars (glucose) in the stomach and small intestine where they are eventually absorbed into the blood stream. The hormone, insulin, continues the process by transferring glucose from the blood to the liver and muscles where it is stored for utilization on demand. This energy reserve, known as glycogen, is the resource that provides immediate power bursts critical for all horses, but especially horses involved in intense anaerobic sports such as racing. The starch from corn, oats, barley, and molasses are the most common sources of soluble carbohydrates

Insoluble Carbohydrates

Unlike soluble carbohydrates, insoluble carbohydrates are derived from the fiber source, cellulose, which is digested in the hind-gut. Taking 24+ hours to process, insoluble carbohydrates are transformed into volatile fatty acids, which are absorbed and held by the liver as an additional energy source. Forages such as hay, grass, beet pulp, and soybean hulls are the main suppliers of insoluble carbohydrates.

Understanding the Relationship between the Two

Trouble often starts when feeding excessive amounts of soluble carbohydrates. Because there may not be sufficient time for the starches to be broken down in the stomach before reaching the small intestine, glucose and insulin can flood the blood stream causing metabolic upsets particularly in the young developing or senior horse, as well as hyper-excitability and behavioral problems across the board. Alternatively, when the starches are not adequately broken down, they enter the hind-gut and rapidly ferment, which is where disorders like colic and founder originate.

Insoluble carbohydrates (fiber), on the other hand, are fundamental to an efficient digestive system (horses can live on fiber alone as an energy source), and therefore should not be compromised in an effort to reduce starches and sugars in the diet. A general guide line is to feed at least one to two pounds for every 100 pounds of weight per day. For example, a 1,000 pound adult horse would need approximately 10 – 20 pounds of hay and may be fed even more depending on its workload and condition.

Research shows that by increasing dietary fiber and fat (fat is the densest form of energy and is considered effective in controlling the rate at which glucose is released into the system), while reducing starch and sugar intake will benefit the overall health of horses participating in light to intense performance or pleasure activities while at the same time reducing the risks linked with starch overload.

Cool deal, Larry; thanks for making a mole hill out of a mountain?

Equine Gastric Ulcer Syndrome (EGUS)

I know I’ve mentioned this before - I do foster/lay up care for off the track Thoroughbreds through CANTER New England - my heart’s work. And, I’m sure I’ve also mentioned that I fall in love with every new horse that comes on the yard. Like take my latest arrival, Black Rainbow who I dubbed, My Little One. He got to the farm in really bad shape. He was so thin you could play the harp on his ribs, and not surprisingly he was lethargic, his coat was dull, he had chronic diarrhea, and the most disturbing thing of all in my book, he had a worried, distrustful look in his eye when he’d even bother to look, that is; I was really afraid he’d given up.

Since it’s a known fact that a daunting 90% of racehorses and another 60% of show horses have ulcers, with untold numbers that are mostly confined to stalls probably in the mix as well, and because gastroscopy was not a financial option, I decided I’d better treat My Little One accordingly just the same. So, I slowly transitioned him to a high fiber, high fat pelleted feed to which I added probiotics and freshly ground flax seeds before turning him out from dawn ‘til dusk with enough hay to feed an elephant (when I tried to add soaked beet pulp to his diet, he’d relapsed back to having diarrhea, so I bailed on that idea).

Over time, I’m relieved to say, he started to rally and even learned to relax a bit – touching his ears and eyes took some time, though. Then, all of a sudden one day he re-connected, and with a vengeance. I practically had to peel him off the ceiling – if he wasn’t up on his hind legs, he was jumping, kicking and tossing his head, especially at meal time. It was wild. Over time and with a lot of work, however, we came to terms and he eventually became a total lovey. And, on the physical side – he gained enough weight to achieve an optimum ‘5’ on the Henneke Body Scoring Scale. Yet, with such a dramatic change in his temperament, I couldn’t help but wonder that maybe some of the behavioral challenges people face, from apathy to off the charts, are as a result of their horses having been plagued by Equine Gastric Ulcer Syndrome (EGUS), leading me to ask: how can you tell what’s a reaction to pain and what’s just plain rude?

That’s what I posed to Frank Andrews, DVM, MS, Dipl. ACVIM and professor at the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine. Here’re the Cliff Notes of what he said. “It’s not the behavior as it is the change in behavior that alerts us to the possibility of a physical problem.” He cited two examples: the horse that normally has a good attitude, who for no apparent reason becomes mean spirited – ears pinned back or nipping, and the horse whose performance has declined, again for no obvious reason. So, how does EGUS happen? “You could make a case for stress being a prime contributor, that and poor nutrition management,” he said. He went on to explain that a horse’s saliva is bicarbonate rich in addition to having special coating agents to buffer and ultimately neutralize stomach acids - why the chewing process is vital to proper digestion. Consequently, if a horse is too fidgety to eat, or only gets fed twice a day with a token serving of hay (ideally he should be offered as much as he’ll eat), he’ll likely not be able to counteract the effect of the acids churning around. “And, because the esophagus extends into the stomach,” Dr. Andrews pointed out that a horse is, “as subject to acid reflux as we are.”

And, so it goes to show, once My Little One was back up to speed, he picked up where he left off – only better. Armed with good looks and good manners, the story has a happy ending; he’s now happily ensconced in the lap of horse luxury. Not only does he have a pasture mate with whom he shares hay and whose withers he often nibbles, I’m told, but he also has the ideal adoptive parents as well – a devoted equine and small animal veterinarian couple. Wow! It doesn’t get better than that.

Pasture Mates

I don’t know about everybody else, but my heart’s always in my throat whenever I introduce a new member to the herd, even though in this case, the herd consists of my horse, Bean, and his second-in-command, Freddie. It wasn’t always that way, however. Having been at the bottom of the totem pole for most of our eight years together, it wasn’t until he came to the farm that he now calls home that Bean finally stepped up to the plate and, after a lot of ranting, raving and chest thumping, emerged as number one. I must confess, I was secretly glad; I just couldn’t rationalize my then 14-year-old, 16.1 H Thoroughbred being bossed around by a three-year-old, barely 15 H Morgan, but horse hierarchy is anything but linear.

To that point, I’m now fostering a magnificent descendant of the Triple Crown Winner, Secretariat, I call Striker who stands 16.2 H and is as solid as The Rock of Gibraltar (I know, I gush about all the horses who come under my wing). Anyway, since I don’t have another charge on the yard right now, he has his own pasture next door to my crew. Nevertheless, I’d often notice him lingering around the fence waiting to play, so one afternoon when everyone was hanging out, I took the plunge and put him in with the boys . . . Big mistake. After watching little Freddie terrorize poor Striker, as big as he is, for three days in row, I accepted the fact that it wasn’t going to work.

According to the American Heritage Dictionary, a bully is, “A person who is habitually cruel or overbearing, especially to smaller or weaker people,” which rang a bell here, and which got me to wondering, how different is one species of bullies from another? That’s when I contacted Dr. Betsy Greene, Equine Specialist at the University of Vermont to get her read on the matter. Here’re the highlights of our conversation:

¨ Horses will always have herd animal instincts, no matter how old or how much training they have; their pecking order helps them feel comfortable with group dynamics, even the “bottom” horse can be happy in his role

¨ When you put a new horse into an established hierarchy, the order must be sorted out all over again, hence the challenging, kicking and fighting

¨ The highest ranking horse gets first dibs on territory, food, and water, which he might defend vehemently, so it’s important to precede with caution. Take your time and provide an escape route for the lower ranking horse to get out of harm’s way

¨ If it’s possible, allow the horses to meet over the fence in adjoining paddocks. While sniffing noses often leads to the inevitable squealing, head tossing, and pawing, it’s the process by which they begin to determine their order. But, if you need to put the horses together immediately, it’s best to turn them out after a meal to avoid disputes over feed. And, be sure to stay nearby until they settle down

¨ You may want to keep the halters on the first few times they are together, but be very cautious of trying to interfere with their natural process or you may end up in a precarious or dangerous position. Unless there is continued conflict, most horses will work out their differences in a few hours or days

¨ On the other hand, if one horse is continually disturbing or threatening the other, or if there is an out-and-out battle, which may include multiple chase scenes with ears pinned back and teeth barred, they should be separated

¨ Even when the order’s been established, the pasture should allow each horse adequate room to stand freely around the hay feeder, or divide the hay into more piles than horses far enough apart to keep the dominant horse from controlling the food. The same applies to the water tank and run-in shelter; the submissive horse must have enough room to move away

So, it just goes to show - as harsh a commentary for horses as it is for people . . . a bully by any other name is still a bully.

Equine Bowed Tendon

I’ve recently started doing foster and lay-up care for "Off the track Thoroughbreds" through CANTER (Communication Alliance to Network Thoroughbred Ex-racehorses), a dream come true. Having grown up on the track, I know first hand how hard life can be for these young horses who give of themselves so unselfishly; that’s why I made a promise to myself that one day I’d give something back . . . So, here I am . . . One of my first charges was a five-year-old drop-dead gorgeous mare who had bowed a tendon. You could tell by her expression and by the way her ears loped out to the sides that she was in pain, not to mention she came off the trailer on three legs.

I knew my first order of business was to keep her quiet and get the heat and swelling down, which I did by hosing her leg with cold water and applying 90% DMSO gel, followed by wrapping both the injured leg and the weight bearing leg every day. Nevertheless, as a bow is tricky business, I figured I’d better pay attention to “that little voice,” and pass the torch over to someone who really knows something. That’s when I contacted soft tissue expert, Grant Myhre, DVM, and founder of Myhre Equine Clinic in Rochester, NH. But, it got me to wondering, anyway, because it’s not practical to call a veterinarian every time a horse gets into a fix, where is the line between being a neurotic horse owner and someone who’s about to do irreparable damage?

Equine Bowed Tendon Defined

With that said, Dr. Myhre began his counsel at the beginning - by defining a bowed tendon. It’s most commonly a tear of the superficial digital flexor tendon located in the middle of the cannon bone region. The reason it’s called a “bow” is due to the subsequent “bow-like” swelling that appears on the back of the leg. Owing to the lengthy healing process and because the torn fibers are often replaced by fibrous scar tissue, making the leg more vulnerable to re-injury, he recommends getting a baseline ultrasound to be used as the benchmark for future evaluations.

Treatment

Depending on the results, there are a number of treatment programs Dr. Myhre suggests you discuss with your vet if you ever find yourself in this unfortunate situation. For instance, one of the less expensive approaches, once the initial symptoms have subsided, consists of a 25% Furison + 25% DMSO + 50% distilled water preparation applied to the area and then wrapped. A 50% Listerine + 50% glycerin recipe works well, too and won’t blister the leg. Or, you can put together a self-styled whirlpool out of a plastic garbage can and a garden hose.

Then there are a few non-invasive treatments - therapeutic ultrasound, low-power laser, and magnets, as well as intralesional medications, such as Bapten® that claim good results. Plus, a new technology - Estracorporeal Shock Wave Therapy (ESWT) is being touted as the latest breakthrough discovery. Involving the use of high frequency sound waves to stimulate the cells, it’s thought to kick-start the healing process and dramatically speed up recovery time. But, if a surgical procedure is the recommendation, tendon splitting and stem cell replacement are two options that also rate well, although the timeline for each has to be within 90 days of the injury and they can be quite costly.

Exercise

As for exercise, it may entail complete stall rest, hand walking, or light riding, depending on the severity of the bow, the ultrasound evaluation, and the pain level in the horse. Take heart though, there is good news. If diagnosed and treated promptly, followed by sufficient rehab time, and you pay special attention to shoes, ground surfaces, and work programs to prevent a reoccurrence, your horse can make a full recovery –Beauty’s story, I’m thrilled to say.

She’s since been adopted by a devoted “mom” who plans to breed her down the road, as she has a huge pedigree. However, since she’s doing so well, there’s talk of her first embarking on a jumping career, albeit a low level jumping career . . . But, who cares, Beauty’s making a come back . . . that’s all that counts.

Equine Body Scoring

Has it ever happened that your horse has been the target of constructive criticism? You know, the kind of commentary that invariably draws attention to your horse’s defects while at the same time casting the “well wisher” as the voice of experience? And, since it’s almost always personal when it comes to horses, the comments usually cut to the quick, even if they are brought to light under the umbrella of concern.

Somehow we seem to equate pointing out the tiniest flaw with proving our eternal devotion to a creature that couldn’t care less as long as there is enough food, shelter, and companionship around. However, there really are situations that require intervention, like if a horse’s health is at risk; which leads me to ask, when should we shut up and when should we speak up?

Take weight, a subject about which my friends and I offer each other habitual advice, and which makes for some pretty lively discussions. After a landmark session of finger pointing, I decided to talk with Mary Rose Paradis, DVM at Tufts College of Veterinary Medicine to rule on whether a horse is as “fat as a hog” or is a “bag of bones”. Here’re the cliff notes of what she said:

The Henneke System, developed in 1983, has become the standard by which a horse’s condition, regardless of breed, body type, sex, or age is evaluated. Based on a visual and palpable assessment, a rating from one (lowest) to nine (highest), covering six major areas – the neck, withers, shoulder, ribs, loins, and the tailhead, has been devised to establish the degree of fat present in the body (not weight as so often thought).

Body Score Description

1. Poor – Emaciated. Prominent bone structures on neck, withers, shoulders, backbone, ribs and tailhead; hook and pin bones (pelvis) project prominently. Fat can not be seen or palpated

2. Very Thin – Bone structures are slightly less prominent

3. Thin – Fat build up on backbone to the midpoint; fat just covers the ribs. Tailhead is still prominent but individual vertebrae are not easily identified. Hook and pin bones are no longer obvious. Withers, shoulders, and neck are accentuated

4. Moderately Thin – Negative crease along the back; faint outline of ribs. Fat can be felt around the tailhead. Hook and pin bones are not discernible. Withers, shoulders, and neck are filling in

5. Moderate – Back is level. Ribs are not seen, but can be easily felt. Fat around the tailhead is beginning to feel spongy. Withers appear round. Shoulders and neck blend smoothly into the body

6. Moderate to Fleshy – Slight crease down the back. Fat over ribs feels spongy. Fat around the tailhead feels soft. Fat is beginning to be deposited along sides of the withers, behind the shoulders and along the sides of the neck

7. Fleshy – May have crease down the back. Fat around ribs is a noticeable; fat around the tailhead is soft. Fat deposits are noticeable along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck

8. Fat – Definite crease down the back; difficult to palpate ribs. Fat around the tailhead is very soft. Fat filled withers. Fatty area behind the shoulder. Noticeable thickening of the neck. Fat is deposited along the inner buttocks

9. Extremely Fat – Obvious crease down the back; patchy fat appearing over the ribs. Bulging fat around the tailhead, along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck. Fat along the inner buttocks may rub together. Flank is filled in

To Calculate Your Horse's Weight without a Scale

While I was at it, I asked how to calculate a horse’s weight without a scale. Here’s the equation: Heart Girth (measure just behind the withers all the way around the girth area) x Heart Girth x Length (measure from the middle of the chest to the tail) ÷ 330 = Weight

Even though there’s an official system upon which we can rely (no longer is a horse considered “damned fat” or “kinda’ thin”; he’s now referred to as the PC “eight” or “three”), you’d think it would end the controversy, but there seems to be just enough subjectivity to keep the debate alive, and well, kicking. Ah, horse people . . .